How Cash Home Buyers Calculate an Offer
The most common reaction to a first cash offer is that the buyer pulled it out of the air. It is a fair suspicion and it is usually wrong. The number comes out of a short calculation, the same one every serious cash buyer runs, and it is worth understanding — both so you can tell a real offer from a bad one, and so you know which parts of it you can actually influence.
The calculation
Four inputs:
- After-repair value. What the house sells for once it is fixed up — based on recent sales of comparable finished houses nearby, not on listing prices and not on what the house might be worth in a better market.
- Repair cost. What it takes to get it there. Roof, systems, kitchen, bath, floors, and everything a buyer’s inspector would flag.
- Holding and resale costs. Months of taxes, insurance, utilities, and financing while the work happens, plus the commission and transfer taxes owed when the buyer resells it.
- Margin. The profit that makes the project worth doing and absorbs the things that go wrong.
Your offer is the after-repair value minus all three of the others. If a house will sell for $400,000 finished, needs $60,000 of work, carries $30,000 in holding and resale costs, and the buyer needs a $40,000 margin, the offer is around $270,000.
You will hear this compressed into a “70% rule” — offer about 70% of after-repair value minus repairs. That is a rule of thumb, not a formula, and it gets less accurate the further a house is from average.
Why the offer is below market — and what you get for it
The discount is not a trick. It is payment for four things a listed sale does not give you: no repairs, no commission, no financing contingency, and a closing date you choose. A cash buyer is taking the repair risk, the market risk, and the carrying cost off your hands, and pricing that transfer.
Whether that is a good deal depends entirely on your house. If it needs nothing and you can wait, listing nets more — comfortably. If it needs $60,000 you do not have, the comparison is not “cash offer versus market value,” it is “cash offer versus market value minus repairs you cannot fund, minus commission, minus six months of carrying costs.” Those are very different numbers.
What actually moves your number
Accurate repair information. Buyers price unknowns pessimistically. If the roof was replaced four years ago and you have the invoice, that is worth real money — produce it. Unknown condition behind a wall is assumed to be bad.
Clean title. Liens, unpermitted additions, an unresolved estate, unredeemed ground rent, or a sibling who has not agreed to sell all add cost and risk. Sorting them out beforehand raises offers.
Location specifics. After-repair value is hyper-local. Comparable sales three blocks away can differ substantially, and a buyer who works your area will price it more accurately than one who does not.
Cleaning out the house. Not always — many buyers, including us, take properties full of belongings. But it is a cost, and where it is cheap for you to handle it is sometimes worth doing.
How to tell a real offer from a bad one
- A real buyer will walk the property, or send someone who will, before naming a firm number.
- They will explain how they got there if you ask. Anyone who will not, is not.
- They will show proof of funds.
- The number will not drop right before closing. A high offer that gets renegotiated down at the last minute is a known tactic — the initial figure was never real.
- They will not pressure you to sign that day.
Get more than one offer. A legitimate buyer expects it.
8 Day Home Sale buys houses in Maryland, Washington DC, and Virginia. We will walk the house, explain the number, and leave it on the table while you compare it to what a listing would net. Request an offer or call (301) 242-SELL.


